Sloper Patterns (Princess Seams)
Today I started working on my pattern for Satsuki! Slopers are amazing, and if you haven’t created one for yourself yet, I highly recommend it! Slopers are basic bodice patterns that are drafted to fit the curves of your body. A sloper can be manipulated into different types of bodices depending on where you place the darts! For (well pretty much all) our acen cosplays, we’ll be using princess seams.
To create my basic sloper I followed THIS tutorial from burdastyle. It’s VERY indepth and honestly takes me about an hour to draft. So make sure you’ve got plenty of time and patience before you start working. I use giant, one in graph paper that I picked up from Office Max. I like to use this when I’m drafting patterns so I don’t have to think so hard about straight lines.
Other options would be newspapers, butcher paper, or even taping smaller sheets of paper together :)
A lot of sloper tutorials only draft it to the waist. For my purposes, I need it to end around my hips. This was an easy addition. First you’ll measure from your waist to your hips and then add that extension to the pattern BEFORE YOU CUT IT OUT. Make a straight line from the front to the back to create your “hip line” (yeah he’s pretty rad).
After that you’ll extend the lines in the middle of your darts and draw a diagonal line from the two points at the bottom of the triangle to where the line intersects on your “hip line.” This will make those diamond shapes you see on my pattern.
Remember that slopers can be adjusted to fit YOUR body, that’s why they’re so awesome! Since I know that I have relatively large hips, I added about an inch and a half to my back pattern and made a line connecting it to the bust. This is to add my own ease and make sure I don’t need to adjust it later. You may or may not need to consider this, but that’s the explanation for the weird, slightly diagonal back seam.
Now, onto your princess seaming! As a visual person, I found THIS tutorial for creating princess seams extremely useful. In the second picture, I high-lighted my lines in red. I decided to draw these in before cutting.
One adjustment that I found needed to be made when modifying the burdastyle sloper pattern into these seams was the shoulder dart in the front pattern piece. After I cut it out, I simply connected the two lines of the dart and folded it in place. Then I folded the right side of the pattern back to face the front so the pattern would lie flat. (there’s a picture of this XD)
I recommend making a mock-up of your pattern before cutting any of your good fabric out of muslin or other cheap material and trying it on :)
Good luck and enjoy your sloper!!! :D
((apparently I can’t find the “read more” button! Sorry for the super long post))